Dulce de Leche - A History

One of the most famous delicacies in Spain or Latin America is Dulce de Leche, its name literally translates to 'sweet from milk' as it is made by slowly heating milk & sugar until it forms a smooth and creamy sauce. Not to be confused with Caramel (made without milk) this indulgent sauce is immensely popular in Latin cuisine; it is commonly paired with Churros, Cake, Buñuelos and Ice Cream. The roots of Dulce de Leche are disputed with Brazil, Argentina, Chile & Paraguay all claiming to be its country of origin by providing different accounts of how Dulce de Leche came into being.

The most famous story about the discovery of Dulce de Leche comes from Argentina in 1829: Prior to the signing of a peace agreement (Cañuelas Pact) between two warring political rivals - Juan Lavalle & Juan Manuel de Rosas, the maid of de Rosas was preparing Lechada (boiled milk & sugar) in the kitchen. It is said that the maid discovered Lavalle asleep in the house, fearing the worst she went to find the guards and left the Lechada unattended. On her return she discovered that the milk & sugar was burned and had turned into a creamy sauce that we now call Dulce de Leche. The maid, pleased with its taste, decided to serve it to the attendees of the meeting and it was met with delight.

In Chile it is claimed that Dulce de Leche was born following the arrival of the Army of the Andes in 1817. Again evolving from Lechada, it is said to have been promoted around Rio de la Plata & Peru by the Argentine General Jose de San Martin. It is also mentioned by Swiss Naturalist Johann Rengger who detailed a milk & sugar syrup being prominent in Paraguay in the years between 1819 & 1825. Going back a century further, there is a written account in Brazil regarding the production of Dulce de Leche in the state of Minas Gerais, dating back to 1773!

While the debate still rages over the which country came up with the delicacy first in the 18th or 19th centuries, there are some studies that have shown that Dulce de Leche has its origins in ancient cultures. Argentine historian Rodolfo Terragno states that Dulce de Leche was present in the ancient Indian medicinal system of Ayurveda; it was named Rabadi and corresponds with the present day Indian delicacy of Rabri. Some believe Dulce de Leche to have come from ancient civilisations in Indonesia and the Philippines until discovered by European Colonisers.

The contested and somewhat confusing history of Dulce de Leche largely stems from its presence in countries throughout the world. Across the globe it has many different names, flavours and methods of cooking. In most Latin countries it is mostly the same both in name & flavour, however, some nations do differ: Arequipe - Colombia & Venezuela, Cajeta - Mexico (made with goat's milk), Fanguito - Cuba, Manjar - Chile & Ecuador, Manjarblanco - Bolivia, Panama and Peru (sauce is not browned so appears white). Sometimes vanilla bean, lemon or lime juice, cinnamon and rice are added to alter the flavour of Dulce de Leche, but nearly all versions retain similar ingredients and cooking methods.

Although claimed by various nations, Dulce de Leche is widely perceived as an Argentine dish and their recipe is the most commonly used worldwide - consisting of 4 parts milk, 1 part sugar and a pinch of baking soda. While its exact origins are unclear, Argentina is credited with increasing the popularity of the delicacy in the Latin world. Whether it is drizzled over ice cream, filling a Churro or simply eaten straight out the bowl, this sweet, creamy and smooth Latin delicacy is simply a must-try.